A Duck goes to the Shetland Islands

Our ferry sailed into the English port of Ramsgate in the middle of the night. After disembarking, there was this highly suspicious English immigration officer waiting for us. The man wanted to know everything. Our professions, intention of stay, the length of stay, do we have enough money? Our answers seemed to be fine, so the man cooled down a bit. Maybe the fact that we arrived in a Duck has raised some doubts in his mind (the ordinary people's way of thinking: the level of respect given to a person equals the value of this person's car). Or maybe this is the usual procedure for all foreigners that dare to enter the fortress on the British Isles. Or maybe just for residents of a small insignificant country that no one knows about. Anyhow, we left in a friendly mood, the man even gave us some advices for the trip.

Our first serious stop was the Lake District National Park. England is packed with rivers and lakes of all sizes, but the Lake District seems to be the jewel in the crown. For quite a while, we were driving from lake to lake, around the lakes, around the mountains and across the mountain passes. The mountains here are not very high, but they offer some very good hiking opportunities. Some shores were packed with tourists, but we were able to find a few more solitary spots, like the Vastwater.


Of course, we didn't forget to visit the Ashness bridge under the Ashness Fell. We were admiring the pictures of this bridge back home and they were wonderful. Just imagine - the bridge, shining in a sunlight, with a crystal blue lake and a snow covered mountain in the background. But when we actually got there, it was raining, so our picture of the Ashness bridge was not that perfect at all.


We have decided to boldly attack the Honister Pass with our fully packed Duck. Well, it was a piece of cake. Dyane did a climb all the way to the top easily. Once on top, Brigita decided to take a short break. After sitting in a car for the whole morning, it was a time for a big change: she sat down next to a car for a while.

Honister Pass was easy, but the Hardknott pass was much harder. We didn't dare to try to go up with a car, after seeing all those warnings about extremely steep climb. So we went there on foot. It was a pleasant stroll to the ancient Roman Fort at the Hardknott, where we found ourselves surrounded by sheep that were roaming around the ruins.

We visited Keswick, one of the larger towns in the National Park and parked our duck next to a British 2CV. We noticed the Deux Chevaux Club of GB sticker, so we attached a greeting message to a wiper, with the invitation to a World 2CV meeting in Slovenia in 1995. After visiting some more local attractions, like Castlerigg, we were ready for Scotland.


The Scottish capital is one of the most pleasant cities we've been to. Even though we rate the mother nature's creations high above the works of man, we felt great in Edinburgh. The air was filled with the sounds of the pipe players, standing on every street corner. A stroll along the magnificent mile was very enjoyable experience, and so was a climb up to the Citadel. But after a while here, we began to feel the usual urge to go and visit some less crowded spots.


A good chance was at the Falls of Shin. We have read and heard many stories about the salmons returning to their birthplaces, but here, we have witnessed their efforts. The Atlantic salmons begin their lives upstream the rivers, then swim all the way to the sea and to the west across the Atlantic ocean but return to the rivers to breed. On their way upstream, they jump across the waterfalls and rapids. As we were watching them at the falls, just a few made it up in the first attempt. Many had to try it several times. Some of the jumps were really spectacular, spanning for several meters.

After another few days of rolling through the Scottish North, we reached Thurso and the ferry towards the Orkneys and the Shetlands. On the eve of departure, a French lady approached us and watched closely our stickers at the back of the car for a while. "I drove it once, too," she said. It seems like everybody in France has been driving a Deux Chevaux at least for some time.


The price of the trip was not cheap at all, probably because of the fact that P&O Ferries is one of the few companies operating here. There seems to be no real competition that would lower the prices. Shortly after departure, we reached the Island of Hoy. In fact, we only sailed by a very dominating sight - the Old Man of Hoy, a rocky tower rising out of the sea more than 130 meters high.


We didn't stop on Hoy though, we sailed on towards Stromness. In Stromness, I remember seeing a local 2CV, painted blue and a bit rusty because of too much rain on Orkneys. Stromness was pretty with its narrow streets but we soon departed towards Kirkwall, the largest town on the island. About one third of the islands' population lives in Kirkwall. The St. Magnus Cathedral was certainly worth seeing. Built in 1137, it is quite a landmark. But Orkneys are full of even older buildings. Settlements like Broch of Gurness and Skara Brae were built back in the iron age. Not to forget the rings of stones like The Ring of Brogar. We entered an ancient grave close to Kirkwall, well it was a bit scary feeling because it was complete darkness in there. But the place was surprisingly big. It didn't look that big from the outside.


Scapa Flow is known from less distant history. It is a perfect natural harbour so it was used by the Royal Navy in both world wars. In the second war, a disaster happened here. Scapa Flow was well protected and guarded but a German submarine managed to sneak into the bay. The submarine's torpedos hit a large ship Royal Oak and the ship sank almost immediatelly, taking nearly all the seamen down to the sea bottom. Several hundred lives were lost.


After this event, the Navy closed the bay almost completely by sinking a lot of old ships in all the entrances. The shipwrecks are still there, rising out of the sea like rusty monuments from those strange days. Also, rocky barriers have been made and nowadays the road to the south runs over them. We had a small celebration at Scapa Flow. First 200.000 kilometers have turned on the counter of our Dyane.

Shetland was the next step. If Orkney seemed like another world when compared to the mainland, Shetland seemed like another world when compared to Orkney. A treeless landscape might look a bit sad but it also looked wonderful to us. On Shetland, you are always close to the sea, the Atlantic to the west and the North Sea to the east. The two seas nearly meet at the Mavis Grind, the most narrow part of the Shetland mainland. Close to the Main Island, a lot of small isles are rising out of the sea, like Papa Stour, a strangely shaped piece of land. Shetland had a lot of wonderful sandy beaches although it was a bit cold for swimming and the cold wind was blowing constantly.


To the south, a magnificent Sumburgh Head awaited. From the Head we had a great view towards the Fair Isle and down to the sea where seals were bathing. Since there are a lot of steep cliffs on Orkneys and on Shetlands, there are also a lot of birds nesting under the top of the cliffs. And a lot of bird watchers, willing to spend days at the cliffs just to spot a particular kind of a bird.


We are not exactly bird experts to tell you the names of all the birds seen there, but we liked the lovely puffins a lot. They seemed like litlle flying clowns. But they were very capable at fishing. As we understood, they were soon to depart to the open ocean where they were spending most of their lives. They just came to the shore for a short period to breed.

Shetland also has its urban face and it is named Lerwick. We were spending our nights close to a Clickimin Broch, a building from the 4th century BC. But just minutes away, there was a Lerwick town centre. The town is dominated by Fort Charlotte which is a good place to visit to see some great views of Lerwick. And the town park was also very lovely. Lerwick harbour can be quite a busy place in the summer, hosting boats from all over the world.

The USA might be the place where everything is big, but the Shetlands are the spot where everything is small and lovely. Small hills, small streams, small waterfalls, small horses, small dogs (Shelties). There's just one thing that seems a bit disturbing: the oil refineries. Oil is being pumped out of the North Sea and then processed in these refineries.


After returning back to Scottish mainland, we entered lonely and wild Northwest of Scotland. From Cape Wrath down to the Isle of Skye, it was a wonderful trip. So was the Skye, particularly the Cuillins, which looked very alpine to me, and so was the magnificent Eilean Donan Castle.


Of course, we did not forget to watch closely the calm waters of Loch Ness for a while, to maybe spot that monster that locals don't doubt a bit about. Sorry, no monster today. Only the hairy Scottish cows on the grassy shores. Let me include a quote from a local tourist company offering submarine trips in the Loch: "Come experience the wonderful underwater world... and there is always an exciting opportunity of actually spotting the famous Loch Ness monster!"

From Fort William there was a good view towads Ben Nevis, the highest peak of Scotland and the Great Britain. It doesn't seem very high to someone coming from an alpine country, but it was partially covered with snow even in August. So the hikers should be prepared adequatelly before going to the summit. Not all of them are: people get killed up there occasionally.

Climbers also get killed in the walls above Glen Coe, a spectacular valley that is very important to the Scottish people. In 1692, it was a site of a massacre in which English troops attacked the Scottish highlanders that offered them hospitality. Not exactly a fair move, especially when having in mind the reason for the attack: just to make an example of English power over the Scotsmen. The valley was named "weeping glen" after this sad event.


England is far more settled than Scotland and the nature is less spectacular. But also here some very nice spots can be found. We talked a bit about the Lake District: another pretty place is the Peak District National Park and the entire Penine Hills. However, after two weeks of Scotland, the time was running out. We will have to return here some other time.

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